Some of my favourite bookshops

I do love a good bookshop. How can anyone not love a good bookshop?

On my travels doing this history thing, I get to visit a lot of cities and towns, and wherever I find myself lurking for a few hours, I always make sure to check out the local bookshops. I simply cannot walk past a bookshop without popping in quickly. If I have more time, where better to wile away the day than browsing the newest releases in your chosen genre, or just getting lost in a labyrinth of paper and dustjackets with no intention of finding your way out of this library-for-sale? After all, as Hilary Mantel once put when discussing her love of bookshops, ‘would a gardener not be happy in a garden?’

Now, any published author will readily admit that the first thing they do upon stepping onto the hallowed turf of a purveyor of books is to seek out their own work on the shelves. Egotistical perhaps, or a desperate need for validation, who knows? But search we will, followed by a deep hit of delight or dismay depending on the outcome of that mission. In my case, often dismay, actually, but it does make the rare sighting of one of my books all the more sweeter. If you ever hear a random yelp of joy in a bookshop, it’s an author finding their own work.

Bookshops are the champions of authors, particularly independent spots that rely on fostering a close relationship with both reader and writer to build their reputations. Often community spaces, the best bookshops are cornerstones of our high streets, a resilient underdog in a tough economic climate.

But which ones are my favourites?

As a disclaimer, I’m writing this on the fly with an increasingly agitated cat begging for my attention, so it’s a certainty I’ve forgotten some absolute legends. Apologies, and I’ll update when I’ve had more coffee. It’s also a certainty there are incredible bookshop experiences out there that I have yet to have the pleasure of frequenting.

I WANT TO KNOW YOUR FAVOURITES. If you know of any must-visits, share in the comments below!

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Lindum Books, Lincoln

What can one say about Lindum Books, situated mere steps away from the soaring majesty that is Lincoln Cathedral and the equally impressive castle? A fantastically atmospheric independent that opened a decade ago, Lindum is everything you want from a bookshop, whatever your age and whatever your interest. Unlike many bookshops, they also host a second-hand range which always offers up curious finds. They take particular care to curate a brilliant local history section, showing genuine interest in the community they serve.

Attentive and knowledgeable staff are always on hand, and they run an incredible live events programme. Having spoken at two of their events, I only know how professionally run they are. Visit Lincoln. Visit Lindum Books.

Minster Gate Book Shop, York

I lived in York for eight years, and as to be expected from such an internationally renowned heritage city, they have a fine bookshop worthy of its surroundings.

Minster Gate Book Shop, as the name suggests, is situated right in the shadow of the unrivalled York Minster, its sign often featuring in the foreground of thousands of pictures taken every week. Not bad for marketing. In fact, there was a bookseller near this very spot during the reign of Elizabeth I, with the street sometimes known as Bookland Lane or Bookbinder’s Alley. If approaching from Stonegate, you will past a small statue of Minerva, the Roman goddess of Wisdom who is depicted resting upon a stack of books. This was installed by a bookseller by the name of Wolstenholme during the early Victorian reign. No book shop, then, is better situated, or more appropriately, than Minster Gate.

Once you’re able to tear your eyes away from the incredible 500-year-old Rose Window that was installed in the Minster to commemorate the marriage of Henry VII and Elizabeth of York, entering the Georgian entrance to the bookshop is like taking a step back in time. The floor creaks beneath your feet, some rooms have hammerbeam ceilings, and there are books piled everywhere, not just on the shelves. Take care not to step on any when navigating up and down the cramped stairways!

It may be surprising to learn that Minster Gate was only established in 1970, but it very much retains a traditional ethos, specialising in antiquarian and second-hand books and deeply engaged in the two-way trade of books. Every subject imaginable can be found, spread across five floors and seven rooms. Hours can be wasted here, and should be as well. Even better, many books are very competitively priced, and many a rare bargain has been found.

Skoob Books, London

Situated on the periphery of trendy Bloomsbury’s Brunswick Centre, Skoob Books claims to be home to London’s broadest selection of second-hand books, and they very well may be right.

Skoob’s simple, almost coffee shop-like, entrance, belies the world of books that lies inside, and I wonder how many people may wander past without investigating. Their loss, our gain, I suppose. Once you descend the steps, you enter what can only be regarded as a basement treasure trove, with tens of thousands of books on everything from politics to philosophy, and history to sci-fi. The décor is simple, with an array of exposed pipes and no natural light, but this is a community bookshop always worth a visit. If you’re ever in the area, either as a student at nearby UCL or a tourist at the British Museum, do pop in. They say never judge a book by its cover, well, there we go.

Word on the Water, London

I must admit, Word on the Water is not included for its vast collection of books, as its offering is quite modest for reasons that are evident the first time you stumble across this unusual bookshop. Word on the Water merits inclusion on my list of favourite bookshops for aesthetic reasons – it is a floating bookshop, situated on a canal boat, moored in King’s Cross’s popular Granary Square development.

It just looks cool. Very cool. Thousands of people must wander past this bookshop every day, situated as it is on the heavily used Regent’s Canal path, and many can’t resist stepping into the heart of the boat, crossing the plank and taking care not to bang their head on the way in. Founded in 2011 by two…I don’t know what the term is for canal boaters, but two of them, they purchased this particular 1920s barge and created a unique experience in the heart of a city in which novel ideas (geddit?) are few and far between.

Naturally, not too many people can fit inside at any given time, but once you find your way onto the boat, it’s worth the patience. Books have found there way into every possible nook, and the décor is something akin to a cosy Edwardian study. There is even a stove fire for those colder days. You will definitely find yourself googling the cost of canal boats once you’re home. The only thing better than a reading study, after all, is a floating reading study.

If you are just wandering past, Word on the Water caters for those wanting to do a drive-by browse, with books stocked along the outside of the barge as well. Even better, on the roof can often be found an array of musicians on an open mic stage, providing the sounds as you browse.

If you are ever waiting for a train in King’s Cross and have an hour to spare, make the effort to pop up to this unique book-barge. Particularly in the summer, when you can sit outside on the grass with your new read, it’s worth your time.

Barter Books, Alnwick

Alnwick is incredible, but you probably knew that. I love coming to Alnwick because of the castle, a medieval mainstay that was, and in fact still is, a seat of the Percy family, hugely powerful during the Wars of the Roses and still astonishingly wealthy. In fact, the current duke and his family still live in what is the second largest inhabited castle after Windsor. It’s some gaff. I used to be confused at how popular Alnwick was until I learned it featured in some little-known franchise about some lad named Henry Potter. I don’t know much about that, but it’s served Alnwick well.

Away from the castle, however, it is the famous Barter Books that I love visiting when in this neck of the woods. Established in 1991, the bookshop and its 350,000 books are located in an astonishingly beautiful Victorian railway station. In fact, the café is situated in what was once the old waiting rooms. Mind your head from the toy train that is suspended from the ceiling. The name stems from the owner’s desire to establish a bookshop where you can swap one book for another, and this practice still exists today. You can buy the old-fashioned way of course, if bartering is not your thing.

Barter Books is not just a bookshop, its an experience, and one which you should sample for several hours. Come, browse the shelves, wander around, eat and drink in the café. It’s the perfect way to unwind from a day at the castle.

Hatchards, London

Look, I know that Hatchards is today effectively a posh Watersones, having been bought out in 1990, but it’s also an institution. Hatchards was opened in 1797 by a chap called, unsurprisingly, Hatchard, and lays claim to be the oldest in London, and probably by extension Britain.

Even approaching Hatchards, on London’s classy Piccadilly, you know this bookshop is different from others (even the other, much larger, flagship Waterstones a few doors down). Large, curved bay windows, a pair of huge Union Flags on poles, the name etched above the door in calligraphy from a bygone era, the royal arms and royal warrants on display, Hatchards bears all the hallmarks of a traditional upper crust bookshop once reserved for royalty and the elite now accessible to all.

The staff are well-dressed, informed, and polite, the shop pristine, the books aplenty. It is like browsing through an aristocrat’s personal library, except that for flash of your card you can leave with that fine Henry VII book by your favourite Welsh author that you’ve long had your eye on. Even better, as this is a favoured haunt of authors as much as readers, few bookshops possess more signed copies than this one. It was reputedly Oscar Wilde’s favourite bookshop. We love it, you love it, everyone loves it.

Richard Booth’s Bookshop, Hay-on-Wye

Hay in mid-Wales is the world’s first book town, the vibrant home of the insanely successful Hay Festival. It has at least twenty bookshops in a modest town that should, by rights, barely be able to support one. Naturally, it is only fair their flagship operation features on this list. It is some venue.

Richard Booth was an Oxbridge-educated local who opened his first bookshop in 1961, even flying to the US to help build his collection from former libraries, and eventually had enough to run over half-a-dozen shops. This would be impressive in a major city, but in somewhere like Hay is just downright unthinkable. Booth truly made his name in 1977 when he declared himself ‘King of Hay’, earning international attention for his hometown, and of course, his enterprise.

Although he is no longer with us, Booth’s eponymous flagship bookshop on Lion Street remains a must-visit for any bibliophile. If it’s not the extravagant crimson and cream facade or the several large windows that reveal row after row of books that catch your attention, the words ‘Richard Booth’ painted in the centre of the former chapel will.

Inside, three spacious and well-lit floors host new and second hand books on every subject imaginable. In fact, it once featured in the Guinness Book of World Records as the world’s largest bookshop, with over a million books available. A range of comfy chairs also invite you to take a seat, always a welcome addition, as is the wonderful on-site café selling a range of Welsh favourites. There is even, on occasion, an associated independent cinema. Have a coffee, nibble on a Welsh cake, catch a film, buy a book, pay tribute to the King of Hay. Oh, and visit all the other bookshops as well. Sounds like a perfect day.

Castle Bookshop, Ludlow

Castle Bookshop in Ludlow is a lovely shop in the centre of this historic market town, a few paces from the gates of one of the finest castles in the country, hence the name. Specialising in local history, the gem in Castle Bookshop’s crown is their secret garden, accessed through the back of the bookshop and which in the summer often hosts celebrated authors discussing their work. Owner Stanton is also free for a chat. A lovely space.

Cofion Books, Tenby

Cofion Books in Tenby is truly a remarkable landmark in an historic coastal resort town hardly lacking in sights. This is a nondescript bookshop unlike any other, a tiny haven nestling in the shadow of the Tudor Merchant's House.

Owned and run by local legend Albie, Cofion can only be described, respectfully and lovingly, as absolute chaos. Books are piled everywhere, and I mean everywhere. Navigating your way around the one-room shop is nigh on impossible. The only person who seems to be able to make any sense from this madness is Albie himself.

A humorous handwritten sign on the door tellingly reads 'enter at own risk', although I am not sure how many people have met their end crushed under an avalanche of books.

Go. Gape in wonder. Chat with Albie. Buy a book. Buy five. And be careful!

College Street Books, Ammanford

Well, I’m not going to end this without giving a shoutout to the bookshop in the town I grew up in, am I?

Ammanford is an old mining town that, like many others in South Wales, has a high street often gasping for air. Fortunately, we are blessed with a wonderful little bookshop that this year celebrates twenty years. Now, for most of that time I haven’t been local, having left for university, returned for a few years, and then left again, but whenever I’m home I do enjoy popping in for a browse of the eclectic collection contained within.

Situated in the town’s late-Victorian red-bricked Arcade, erected in 1899, inside is what I’d consider organised chaos, tightly packed shelves housing books on a wide range of subjects. Being in Wales, however, what particularly marks this family-run shop out from others is its vast collection of Welsh history and Welsh language books, with many a rare sighting of a long out-of-print book being gleefully spotted.

Online may be where many booksellers thrive-or-die, but there is something to be said for popping into a small-town shop like this and finding gems you didn’t even know had been written. Long may College Street Books flourish, upholder of a proud tradition of local history publishing.

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'Son of Prophecy: The Rise of Henry Tudor' is a 300-year history of one Welsh family. It tells how they emerged from the wilds of Gwynedd, navigated the murky and violent waters of Welsh-Anglo politics, and eventually found their way, almost improbably, onto the English throne. This story involves war, treason, escapes and love.

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